Randi Thomsen

5.00 Norway - 30-Nov-24 -

We arrived the park after nightfall - it’s a 14 hour drive from Brazzaville.

Camp Impalanga, one of the few camps in Odzala, is a small facility run by African Parks, offering just four cabin/tents. There is no luxury here, but perfect for a couple of days in the Congolese jungle, and we believe it will be an unforgettable adventure. We are staying four nights and hoping to see our first gorillas.

Odzala is one of Africa’s largest national parks, established as early as 1935. Today, the National park is also managed by African Parks.

Before breakfast the first morning, we hiked to the nearest bai—a natural forest clearing with water—for a quick look. It didn’t take long before a silverback gorilla appeared. He took his time, eating leisurely and enjoying the peaceful surroundings. Breakfast was delayed today. Afterward, we returned to the lookout tower again, but aside from spotting a red forest hog, there wasn’t much to see. Instead, the jungle treated us to a dramatic tropical thunderstorm.

After lunch, during our third visit to the bai, we first spotted a pair of red duikers, followed by another, slightly larger, silverback gorilla. Seeing two magnificent silverbacks in one day far exceeded our expectations. That evening, a cold beer by the campfire tasted particularly satisfying.

Day 2 Again before breakfast we again visited the bai, it is a 500-meter walk along jungle boardwalks. To our amazement, the same silverback returned. Watching him pock and wash his food, eat, scratch, and stretch was fascinating. Once again, breakfast was delayed.

At 10:00 a.m., we drove 27 kilometers deeper into the park to another bai, where we observed grazing buffalo. Lunch was a packed meal enjoyed while listening to the jungle’s sounds and waiting - an exercise in patience. Although not much happened, the tranquil atmosphere made it worthwhile. On our return, we stopped at the Odzala sign for a group photo and were greeted by an elephant - a thrilling surprise.

Day 3 We rose early to catch the sunrise at the bai, 27 kilometers into the park. Unfortunately, luck was not on our side that morning, with only a few birds and colobus monkeys making an appearance. By 9:30 a.m., we packed up and headed toward the river.

Our journey included a group effort to free one of the jeeps from deep mud. The reward was (except for muddy clothes) an epic boat trip along the winding Mambili River, surrounded by dense Congolese jungle. The scenery was so surreal it felt like a dream. Along the way, we spotted a couple of small crocodiles lounging in the trees.

Lunch was served after about 90 minutes at the riverbank, just in time for another dramatic tropical storm. Sheltered under a roof, we enjoyed our meal and the sound of the tropical rain. The return trip, accompanied by a light drizzle, was quicker.

Three days in Odzala passed quickly, filled with incredible experiences. This is undoubtedly one of the most remote and extraordinary places we’ve visited. The dense jungle reminded us of Manu National Park in Peru, though the forest here feels even wilder and denser. 

Our trip was organized by friends who plan African adventures (www.oldexplorer.com). We were part of a test expedition, sharing the journey with other adventurous soulmates. 

The camp is simple but offers a remarkable experience. Lying in bed, gazing through the netting at the jungle, is magical. The cold-water shower worked fine—it’s never cold here. Twice we had uninvited visitors in our bathroom. Svein encountered a snake (fortunately, not venomous), while Randi found a large rodent. Both disappeared quickly, but reminding us that we were truly in the heart of the jungle.

What an adventure—and our World Heritage Site #699 together.